Neil McLennan is an interesting man. His quest for the perfect tofu began 20 years ago when he was living in China’s Sichuan Province and regularly eating a dish that roughly translates as ‘old woman’s pock-marked face’. Despite its unappealing name, the dish was a favourite, and one he wanted to recreate on his return to England, only to find that the tofu available was poor quality and simply didn’t compare in terms of taste and texture. So he set out to make it himself, first in his own kitchen and today in a little workshop off London’s bustling Brick Lane.